The Drill Doctor motor and components are housed
in a tool-grade plastic casing that is durable and impact
resistant (according to the documentation anyway - I'm not going
to test this myself!) but the casing does indeed feel solid and
strong. The whole unit ships in a plastic molded carry case too
- handy if you need to go mobile with the sharpener, although
this is probably not necessary in most cases. Just sharpen the
bits at home before you go. The motor spins the wheel at 15,000
RPM so grinding of edges is completed very quickly!
As mentioned above, a replaceable diamond wheel
performs all the sharpening tasks. The wheel supplied should be
good for many hundreds of drill bit sharpenings, but should you
require a replacement wheel, these are readily available and can
easily be changed by the user. All instructions supplied in the
included manual.
Before you get started, it is a good idea to read
the included manual, and perhaps more importantly, to watch the
instructional DVD that is included in the 750X kit. This is a
nice inclusion and shows you how to correctly use the tool. You
will grasp the concepts much better by seeing them on screen
rather than reading about them in the manual.
The Process
Ok, let me walk you through the process of sharpening the
various drill bits using the Drill Doctor 750X, and along the
way I'll explain the feature of the tool as well.
I will be sharpening a 1/4" (6.5mm) standard
twist drill bit to begin with, but the process is basically the
same for any sized twist drill bit.
To begin with, you have the option with the Drill
Doctor to sharpen the cutting tips to the standard 118 degree
angle, or to use a flatter 135 degree angle for drilling into
more difficult materials. Sheet metal drilling bits often have
this flatter 135 degree angle to allow the bit to engage the
surface more fully during the initial drilling process, and
hence speed up drilling operation, and generally with less bit
wandering on start too. This angle can be switched between the
two options via the Drill Doctor's Point Angle Adjustment Plate.
Tip geometry can also be adjusted with this sharpening device.
To sharpen a bit there are two basic steps. First
you need to align the bit correctly in the drill bit chuck
supplied with the Drill Doctor. What this does is align the bit
correctly with the specially designed chuck so that when you
come to sharpen the bit on the diamond wheel, the bit geometry
and angles are correctly matched to the same angles already on
the drill bit. The alignment process also allows you to control
how much material is removed from the cutting tips. This is a
great adjustment feature because it allows you to either quickly
touch-up the edges of a bit that has just started to lose its
cutting edge/sharpness, or take off more material from a very
dull bit, or one with damaged cutting tips. The adjustable
Material Take Off screw (MTO) allows this adjustment feature.
With the drill bit loosely secured in the supplied chuck, the
chuck gets inserted into the Drill Doctor's alignment port.
There are a number of notches in the alignment port ring which
engage into the chuck "finger" at the different angle settings.
118 degrees and 135 degrees are marked on this notched ring, so
first you align the finger on the chuck with the correct angle
notch on the ring. Two metal fingers (called clamp arms) in the
Alignment port do the job of aligning the drill bit correctly in
relation to the chuck. They are positioned into the narrowest
section of the flutes on the drill bit just before the tip,
which in turn rotates the drill bit into correct alignment in
the chuck for sharpening (you may need to rotate the drill bit
manually to this point, hence why you don't fully tighten the
drill bit in the chuck initially). Once this alignment is made,
the chuck is tightened while still engaged in the alignment
port, then the chuck is removed and further tightened ready for
sharpening. The bit is now secured in the chuck and correctly
aligned to begin the sharpening action.
Step 1 is probably the hardest, but in saying
that, its still very easy. Step 2 is a breeze. Simply plug in
the Drill Doctor to a circuit and switch it on. The diamond
coated sharpening drill spins up to 15,000 RPM, although it is
far quieter than a router or a rotary tool. Take the chuck, and
with its white markings, line one of those up with the cam guide
on the Drill Doctor's sharpening point. Plunge the chuck in
until is doesn't go any further, than start rotating the chuck
in half turns, ensuring light pressure is directed into the port
direction and that the chuck rides against the cam guide as you
rotate. This causes the whole port to rock up and down as you
turn, which is normal and how it is designed to move. The action
of the cams will provide the continuous changing angle by the
port needed to sharpen twist drill cutting tips. It is hard to
describe this action, so have a look at the Drill Doctor video supplied
here to see exactly how it works. Basically, all you need to do
is rotate the chuck in half turns about three of four times (or
more if removing larger amount of surface material) and ensure
the chuck is seated adequately in the port as you rotate it. A
few seconds later and the bit is now sharpened. It's terribly
easy, in a good way of course. It makes other methods of drill
bit sharpening seem somewhat prehistoric, and definitely mundane
and slow. Now the 1/4" dull bit I had has a noticeably sharp tip
by look and feel. And in practice it seems as sharp as it was
the day it came out of the pack off the shelf. I just saved
myself a few dollars there.
Creating a 135 Degree Drilling Tip
This is done in the same manner as 118 degree tips, however,
the sharpening port is raised to the 135 degree position and
secured, and when you align the drill bit in the chuck using the
Alignment Port, you seat the finger in the 135 degree notch of
the Alignment Port instead of the 118 degree notch. Everything
else is the same.
Creating Other Angle Tips
The Drill Doctor is also capable of sharpening other angles
in the 115 - 140 degree range. The sharpening port angle is
variable between these angles, and there are a few extra notches
in the Alignment Port to cover other angles (although these are
not marked with degree notations. However, there is flexibility
here to achieve different angle grinds. I don't personally have
a need for anything other than 118 degree or 135 degree grinds
myself, but who knows, your situation might be different.
Creating a Back-Cut/Split-Point Tip
The back-cut or split-point tip is a popular drill bit tip
profile for metal workers or wherever a more aggressive cut
start is required. The Drill Doctor 750X allows you to create
these tip grinds very quickly and easily. To create a split
point tip you start by sharpening the drill bit as stated above.
Now, with the drill bit remaining in the tightened chuck, you
use the splitting port on the lateral side of the machine. You
simply align the white mark on the chuck with the mark on the
splitting port and plunge the chuck (and secured bit) straight
into the port. Split the other side by aligning the second white
mark on the chuck with the mark on the splitting port and
plunge. Withdraw the chuck and bit and check it. You should now
have a split-point drill bit. Again, very quick and easy.
I would say that to sharpen a smaller dull bit
from scratch to a sharp edge with a split point design will take
no more than 30 seconds, and probably less once you have the
process figured out. It's easy, don't worry. I had it licked
after just one or two attempts, and the first attempt was
perfectly successful. It is hard (almost impossible) to mess it
up if you have ensured the sharpening port is set for the
correct angle and that you have aligned the bit correctly in the
chuck.
Factors Affecting Sharpening Speed
The major factor affecting speed at which a bit can be
sharpened is the bit's size. Basically, the larger the bit, the
more sharpening rotations are required to sharpen the bit
correctly. The whole cutting face needs to be treated, and this
can take a few turns. For example, a 1/2" bit can take up to 20
half rotations of the chuck in the sharpening port. A 3/4" bit
(which is the largest the 750X can handle) might take up to 40
rotations for a very dull bit. Obviously the more material that
needs to be removed, the longer it will take, and very small
bits only need a couple turns and light pressure on the chuck.
The type of material the drill bit is made from might also
affect sharpening time. Naturally, harder materials will take
slightly longer than softer metals. The diamond wheel (180 grit
equiv) is the hardest of all of course, and should last quite a
long time according to the manufacturers. Spares are readily
available and fairly inexpensive. I cannot say at this point how
long the diamond drum will last. I haven't owned the Drill
Doctor long enough yet. It is still grinding very fast after
about 50 or so bit sharpenings. I expect it to suffer through
many hundreds based on my experience with other diamond
sharpening tools. If you regularly sharpen larger bits of 1/2"
or larger you can buy a coarser 100 grit diamond wheel to
increase the sharpening speed for these bits.
Regardless of these factors, I can't imagine any
faster way of sharpening twist drill bits that can be done at
home and without spending thousands on sophisticated machines.
Sharpening Masonry Bits
The other type of bit the Drill Doctor can sharpen is the
masonry bit (used for drilling brick/concrete, and you guessed
it, other masonry products). Sharpening masonry bits is even
easier than twist bits on the Drill Doctor because the alignment
process is a little simpler. On the end of the drill chuck and
two marks opposite each other. Insert the masonry bit in the
chuck and line up the cutting tips to be parallel to the marks
on the end of the chuck. That's all you need to do for
alignment. You set the cutting depth by lining up the white mark
on the chuck with the cam guide on the sharpening port. Insert
the chuck in the port until the cutting tip of the bit touches
the diamond wheel. At this stage the machine is turned OFF. Now
with the bit touching the wheel, slightly move the chuck
backwards on the drill bit (essentially projecting the drill bit
further out from the chuck) so material will be removed when
sharpening action is undertaken. Secure the bit in the chuck,
again ensuring the cutting tips are parallel to the mark lines
on the end of the chuck. Switch on the Drill Doctor, align the
white line on the chuck with the cam guide and plunge the chuck
straight in to engage the diamond wheel. NO rotation is
necessary for masonry bits. It is just a straight plunge and
withdrawal. Turn the chuck 180 degrees to line up the second
white mark with the cam guide and plunge again to sharpen the
second tip of the masonry bit. Switch off the Drill Doctor and
inspect the tips. If further sharpening is required, readjust
the depth of cut of the bit and sharpen more. Note that you
cannot split the point of a masonry bit as you can do with a
twist drill bit.
Needless to say, sharpening masonry bits is
simple to do as well with the Drill Doctor.
Drill Doctor Maintenance
There is not a lot to maintain on the tool. Basically you
need to keep it clean for best performance by removing any
accumulated grinding dust or debris from the ports, chuck, and
around the diamond wheel enclosure. This can be done with a dry
cloth, small brush, or vacuum. But perhaps it is easiest with
compressed air. A blast of air seems to get rid of pretty much
all the accumulated material on the tool. Be sure to wear safety
gear when cleaning with compressed air however as debris does
get blown in all directions. Doing it outdoors is also better
than in a small enclosed area.
The diamond wheel will eventually require
replacement as the surface wears down. You should get many
hundreds of bits sharpened from a single wheel, but if cutting
speed starts to slow or there are visual signs of strong wear,
grab a new wheel and replace the original. The wheel is held on
by a securing plate and two screws. Simply use the arbor wrench
supplied to hold the arbor steady and unscrew the two screws.
Remove the old wheel, add the new wheel, add the plate,
re-insert and tighten the screws and you are ready to go again.
It only takes roughly 1-2 minutes max to change wheels.
There is no other real maintenance needed on the
Drill Doctor. Just keep it clean, don't overload the motor by
pushing excessively hard against the diamond wheel when
sharpening and it should deliver great service for many years.
I can't claim this on my own
unit yet but I have read other owners comments in the past and
most of them seem to have little or no trouble with their units.
The motor does seem to deliver consistent
speed despite variable load.
Left Hand Bits
The 750X can sharpen 3/32” – 1/2” reverse-twist (left-hand)
drill bits, however, this requires an optional left hand chuck
accessory that does not come with the kit. I haven't seen or
used it so I can't comment further at this stage.
Conclusion
Well, the basic conclusion is that I now have a shop full of
sharp drill bits. I had a stack of dull bits I had kept over the
years that I have been meaning to sharpen, and this collection
had grown quite a bit because of my lack of time or lack of
faith in other sharpening products to do the job properly. Now
with the Drill Doctor, this large collection of bits are back in
a useable condition and will be cutting wood and other materials
once more.
The Drill Doctor is not the cheapest drill bit
sharpening device on the market, retailing
at around US$130 street price, however, if you use twist and masonry
drill bits a lot, and particularly the larger, more expensive
ones, you will find you can recover the cost of the unit
relatively quickly in savings on new bits from the store or
having your existing bits sent out to be professionally
sharpened. The Drill Doctor allows you to sharpen your drill
bits quickly, easily, and right at home, or on the jobsite (if
power is available) meaning there is very little or no down
time. And it is far superior to the cheaper sharpening devices
which often do not replicate the correct tip angles or curves
that make the drill bit a practical, clean, and efficient
cutting tool.
I consider this a very useful and worthwhile
tool, but you have to be using your bits fairly often or require
very sharp bits to get the best value for money out of the tool
considering its initial purchase price. But as I have found,
recovering the cost shouldn't take so long if you are a keen
woodworker using your drill bits on a regular basis. I expect
some of my drill bits to service me for a very long time now I
have this particular sharpening device in the shop, and I will
always have sharp bits ready to go when I need them, which is a
big plus!
|
Available to
Order Online through these companies...
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Amazon.com (USA) |
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DD750X
As reviewed above...
Full featured Pro model |
DD500X
Cheaper model.
1/2" max bit capacity |
|
Rockler.com (USA) |
 | Drill Doctor® 750X Bit Sharpener
Don’t let dull drill bits slow you down! Top-of-the-line professional bit
sharpener from Drill Doctor is built to handle larger drill bits — up to 3/4"
— and offers additional custom flexibility.
..
Drill Doctor® 750X Bit Sharpener |
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In Australia |
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Importer/Wholesaler in Australia |