Dyco Router Table: Discontinued — What to Buy Instead

The Dyco router table is no longer available and the brand has disappeared from the market.

Three things decide a router table

Everything else is packaging.

A flat top that stays flat. A dished or crowned top means the bit height varies across the cut. Check any table with a straightedge in both directions and diagonally. This is where cheap tables fail, and pressed steel tops fail faster than MDF-cored laminate ones.

A fence that adjusts and stays put. The fence carries most of the accuracy. It needs to lock at both ends independently — so you can offset the outfeed face for jointing — and it needs a dust port, because a router table fence is by far the most effective dust extraction point in a workshop.

Height adjustment you can reach. Reaching under the table to unlock a plunge spring, set a height and lock it again, for every adjustment, is the single most frustrating part of using a router table. Above-table adjustment through the insert plate, or a router with a rack-and-pinion winder, transforms it.

Safety, briefly

Never feed a workpiece between the fence and the bit in a way that traps it. Feed right to left across the bit so the rotation pushes the work against the fence. Use a push block on anything narrow — the bit is buried in the table and you cannot see it. Featherboards are worth more here than on any other machine.

What to buy

The Bosch RA1181, linked below, is the benchtop router table most people end up with. Its top is aluminium, which stays flatter than a laminated MDF top in a damp shed, and the fence carries a dust port and independently adjustable faces.

A shop-made table is the better answer if you have a router lift or a router with through-table height adjustment — a slab of MDF, a purchased insert plate and a fence made from two pieces of straight ply will outperform any bench-top commercial table. The commercial version buys you time, not accuracy.