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Online Tool Reviews
Research-based 16 September 2026 · by Dave Adendorff

Torquata DCAK Keyless Drill Chuck — and the Amazon Alternative

Swapping a drill press chuck is a twenty-minute job that removes a lost-key problem forever. Torquata sells direct; here is the Amazon equivalent.

Disclosure:As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases. This costs you nothing and never changes which tools we recommend. Read more.

Torquata is Timbecon’s house brand, sold direct in Australia rather than through Amazon. The chuck scored here is the equivalent JT33-mount keyless chuck you can order today.

Why swap

Two reasons, and the safety one is the real one.

A chuck key left in the chuck becomes a projectile the moment the machine is switched on. Everyone knows this and everyone has done it. A keyless chuck removes the failure mode entirely.

The second is speed. Work that alternates between a pilot bit, a clearance bit and a countersink involves a lot of chuck operations, and doing them by hand is faster than hunting for a key each time.

What you give up

Grip. A keyed chuck uses a gear to multiply your hand force onto the jaws; a keyless chuck uses only your grip. Under a large twist bit or a Forstner in hardwood, a keyless chuck can let the bit spin in the jaws — which scores the shank and then grips even worse next time.

If your drill press mostly swings big Forstner bits, keep the keyed chuck.

Runout matters more than you expect

Runout is how much the bit wobbles off axis as it turns. A cheap chuck can easily have more of it than the original, and it shows up as oversized, slightly oval holes.

Check after fitting: put a straight bit in, spin the chuck by hand and watch the tip against a fixed point. Visible wobble means the chuck, the arbor or the seating is off.

Fitting

Most drill press chucks are pressed onto a Jacobs taper — usually JT33 on benchtop machines. Lower the quill, lock it, and drive the chuck off with wedges or a chuck removal tool. Clean the taper thoroughly, seat the new chuck by hand, then drive it home with a sharp tap through a block of wood. Grease or debris on the taper is the usual cause of a chuck that will not stay on.

What works

  • No chuck key to lose, and no chuck key left in the chuck — which is the single most dangerous habit on a drill press
  • Bit changes take seconds, which matters on work that alternates between a pilot bit and a countersink
  • A JT33 taper fits most benchtop and floor drill presses, so the swap is mechanical rather than model-specific

What doesn't

  • Keyless chucks grip less hard than a keyed chuck of the same size, and a large bit in hardwood can slip and spin in the jaws
  • Runout on budget keyless chucks is often worse than the keyed chuck you are removing, which shows as a wobbling bit
  • Getting the old chuck off can be a fight — they are pressed onto a taper and sometimes need wedges or a puller