So you have a just assembled that nice new Table saw that you picked up at the Annual Woodworking Show or have spent years saving up for... After ripping a few boards and doing a few crosscuts with the mitre gauge, you think to yourself "Now I can do all that tricky stuff that Norm Abram from The New Yankee Workshop does." 

Well it’s not long before you realize that five seconds of video is not enough to teach you how he does it. Your big stack of lumber is steadily being turned into firewood and you have had enough!

It’s time for a bit of education you think but lessons cost money and you blew the budget on the Saw! So a book on table saw techniques sounds like the go but which one? Well, I’m here to tell you that this book is the answer to your prayers.
Let me give you a little tour...

Chapter One – Essential Operations
Kenneth opens his book with an excellent chapter on the basics of setting up and using a table saw. Topics covered include:

1.       Types of Table Saws
2.       Blades
3.       Ripping
4.       Crosscutting
5.       Safety – Guards, Kickback, Push Sticks, Splitters

The four main types of saws, Portable, Contractor, Cabinet and European Style are discussed including the pros and cons of each. Blades are the next item to attract attention with a short section on the different types (Combination, Rip, Crosscut, etc) and their uses. The next section covers the basic operations performed on a Table saw such as ripping, crosscutting, trimming and straight-line ripping which is squaring up a piece of natural edged timber. Finishing up this chapter is a couple of sections showing some easy to make accessories such as Push Sticks, Mitre Gauge face extension (including a stop block) and a crosscut sled to fit in the mitre gauge slots.

Chapter Two – Joinery
Now we get into the magical stuff. The Author takes us through the art of fine joinery using just the Table Saw. We start with simple Rabbets made using Dado blades as well as your standard blade and then move on to Tongue and Groove joints. Following this, we are introduced to more specialist joints such as Lock Joints, which are quite good for drawers and boxes.  As always, full colour pictures are presented showing step by step, the making of the joint. We then move on to Box Joints, which require a simple Jig. Kenneth explanation of how to construct this Jig and use it to create this beautiful joint is very straightforward and concise. Plans (in Imperial and Metric measurements) and color illustrations take away any uncertainty. Following the Box Joint, we are shown how to do Dovetails with the Table Saw. Yes, I said Dovetails! After reading and seeing the Author cut these joints with the Table saw, I must say I was in awe. I’m not going to reveal how its done (you have to buy the book) I will just say it’s actually quite simple.

Now, you may think that cutting accurate tenons on the table saw requires one of those expensive metal jigs, think again.  Kenneth shows us several methods and two different jigs that allow you to achieve perfect tenons every time. The first jig presented is a simple one that could be knocked up if a jiffy and will handle most needs. The second jig is fully adjustable and actually matches the functionality of the commercial units.

The chapter finishes with a section on cutting accurate mitre joints on the saw.  Again, a simple jig is included with full plans and illustrations.  Re-enforcing techniques such as splined mitres are also explained and, again, a simple jig is presented.

Chapter Three – Shaping
In this chapter we are shown methods for shaping wood using just the Table Saw. Kenneth starts with cutting Tapers typically featured on table legs. From here we move on to some more very interesting techniques.

Did you know that you could create complex moulding with just the Table Saw that would usually be done using a Router?  Kenneth now shows us how to do such things as cutting large Cove moulding, both full and half, using just a standard blade. The resulting Cove does need a bit of sanding but that is a small price to pay considering that a large expensive Moulding Planner or a Spindle Moulder would be the only other way to achieve this. To improve the finish, Kenneth introduces us to the Cove Cutting blades. These are thick solid blades with large round carbide teeth produced by CMT. The advantage of these blades is that virtually no sanding is required after cutting. In addition to this specialist blade, we are shown dedicated moulding head systems which fit the Table Saw. These accessories come with different moulding profile cutters that fit into a steel hub and replace the saw blade. These units give an almost unlimited scope to creating moulding on the saw but they do have a fairly hefty price.

The chapter finishes with two more tricks. The first is Kerf Bending that is a method of bending wood to be used for cosmetic (ie non-structural) uses. And the last trick is Pattern Cutting using a Jig that Kenneth has designed (again, full plans are provided). This is quite impressive and I, for one, had never thought of using a Table saw for something that would generally be performed using a Router or Spindle Moulder.

Chapter Four – Cutting Sheet Stock
If you have ever cut large sheets of Plywood on the Table Saw (and who hasn’t), you will really appreciate the Authors tips in this chapter. Again, Kenneth shows us several methods that will make this awkward job much simpler and definitely safer.  Plans for simple Outrigger supports, an Outfeed Table and a very handy Sheet Handling Cart that also doubles as an outfeed table. As with all the other plans, measurements are provided in imperial and metric.

Several techniques to help remove or at least reduce tear-out are discussed as well as material handling methods that ensure safe sawing.

Chapter Five – Tuning up you Saw
After cutting up all that lumber practicing your newfound expertise, your nice new saw may need a bit of a tune up. In this chapter, Kenneth goes through step by step the care and maintenance of the saw. Topics covered include:

1.                   Adjusting the Table Saw and Blade
2.                   Cleaning of rust
3.                   Lubricating – when, how and what with
4.                   Caring for your Blades
5.                   Making zero clearance throat plates
6.                   Adding power via replacement motor belts
7.                   Improving the cut of Thin Kerf blades

All of these procedures are clearly explained in a way that takes away the dread in doing such maintenance.

Projects

Chapter Six – Wall-hung Spice Cabinet
In this and the following two chapters, the Author puts all the techniques presented to use in building three pieces of furniture. The first plan is for a nice little Spice Cabinet featuring a Rail and Stile door with a Raised Panel created with the techniques presented in the preceding chapters. The instructions are fully illustrated and an easy to understand plan is included. This and the following projects have been designed by the Kenneth to exercise the Readers skills. Also, building this project might just get you enough brownie points so that when you bring home your next acquisition, the frowns and comments may be less ;)

Chapter Seven – Tabletop Valet
This plan moves up a little in the skill level and is a very attractive piece that, again, the lady of the house will find very appealing.  Splined mitre joints, dado and two lock joint drawers feature in this plan. Other techniques used include taper cutting and creating simple mouldings for the mirror frame.

Chapter Eight – Demilune Table
I would consider this plan the ‘Graduation’ piece.  While not terribly complicated it will stretch the Woodworkers skills mainly in the ‘attention to detail’ area. This table is your typical half-round occasional table with fine tapered legs and a curved apron made using the Kerf Bending method.  Make this piece, and I’ll just about guarantee those brownie points.

Summary
The book is quite an easy read and does not contain large amounts of text just for the sake of it.  Kenneth explains each tip, trick and technique in a straightforward and easy to understand manner. At 128 pages with over 240 full colour illustrations and lots of detailed plans for jigs, work aids, accessories and furniture, Kenneth’s book is excellent value.

I really found the book a delight to read (and re-read!).  My advice, buy it, you will not be sorry and I am sure you will be referring to it for years to come.