When I first heard of the
Domino I briefly looked at the description and didn't pay any more
attention to it. To me the Domino seemed to be another biscuit joiner and
even though I own one, I was never a fan of them. Then Fine Woodworking
Magazine published a web article on the Domino and the author used the
Domino to make floating tenons for a small table. Well that piqued my
interest. A lot of what I've been making in my hobby has been small
tables and I usually use mortise and tenon joinery which tends to be time
consuming for me. I started doing more research on the Domino and getting
more and more excited in anticipation of the 1 April 2007 U.S. release
date. Well, I got my hands on one thanks to Christian O. at
Festool USA and I had just started preparing the stock
for a cherry coffee table so the timing was perfect.
Like all my reviews this
one will be loaded with detailed pictures and explanations of all the
features and controls of the Domino. I'll also have a few movies where
appropriate to better demonstrate the Domino. I'll document how I used
the Domino in the construction of a coffee table where it is used for all
the apron/stretcher joints as well as the table top glue up and since this
is a first time use of the Domino for me, I'll pass on any hints or
warnings that I discover along the way.
What's in the
Domino DF 500 Q Set is shown in these two photos. The Domino Systainer
(left) contains the Domino, Plug-It power cord, support bracket, wrench
and documentation. Festool has had some problems in the past with tools
bouncing around in the Systainers during shipment but I saw no evidence of
that with the Domino.
In the same shipping box will be the rest of the set which consists of the
Cross Stop and Trim Stop (right), with included instructions. As with the
Domino, we'll get into their use a little later in this review.
you want to use the Domino you'll need some Domino tenons and their
respective cutters. The best way to get everything needed is with the
Cutter & Domino Tenon Assortment Systainer (left). Packaged in a #2
Systainer, this set includes all four of the Domino cutters (right) plus
an assortment of 1105 Domino tenons. Festool also included an extra set
of labels for the tenons in case they wear off or you decide to make your
own storage unit.
I'm only going to make a couple of comparisons to a biscuit joiner and
this one is only to show you the relative size of the Domino to a Dewalt
joiner...something you can go to Home Depot and put your hands on. As you
can see in the picture the Domino's body is slightly thicker at the handle
or grip section. The Dewalt is just a little lighter a 6.8 lbs vs. the
7lbs for the Domino.
Please click on and
enlarge the photo on the right for a reference to the controls as I
explain them below.
Item No. 574258
includes, the DF 500 Q Domino Joiner:
(1) DF 500 Q Joiner
(1) D5 Domino cutter
(1) Support bracket
(1) Operating wrench
(1) Systainer 2
Item No. 574283, the DF
500 Q Domino Set includes all of the above plus the Trim Stop item no.
493487 and Cross Stop item no. 493488.
||25,500 rpm/ 15HZ
|Jointing Depth (max)
|Jointing Width (max)
||23 mm + Joiner bit diameter
|Jointing Bit Diameter (max)
|Drive Shaft Thread
||M6 x 0.75
|Degree of Protection
||Class II (Double Insulated)
These bottom views of the
Domino show the dust port (top of photo at left) and the scribe lines on
the base of the unit to aid in aligning your work.
lets start looking over the controls of the Domino. Starting at the front
is the fence, its operation is similar to the ones on biscuit joiners. At
left is the angle scale (#1
on the reference picture from above) with ball bearing detents and locking
lever. The detents are positioned at 0°, 22.5°, 45°, 67.5° and 90°. The
picture at right shows the height locking lever (#7)
which is located behind the fence on the right
The photo on the left is
looking at the business end of the Domino. Notice two spring loaded guide
pins (left pic, red arrows). These pins can be used to index the Domino
off a mortise or the edge of the work. Apparently there can be some
slight variation where the distance between one pin and the center of the
mortise is slightly different from the other, probably caused by
tolerances in the swivel mechanism for the bit. If you notice that this
is the case the left hand pin (on the right as you look at the front of
the Domino) can be adjusted slightly. There is an eccentricity adjustment
on that pin (see photo at right) which can be adjusted to achieve equal
distance of the two pins to center.
Also in the photo at left
the blue arrows point to the friction pads. These pads help prevent the
Domino from moving when pressed up against the work.
the fence angle lock and on the rear of that post is the fence height
scale (#2). This
scale indicates the distance between the fence and the center of the bit.
You will see and hear me talk about setting the step gauge for some value,
lets say 25mm, but that means that the indicator will be aligned with
12-1/2 on the fence scale...half the value of the step gauge.
Why half the value?
Because the step gauge value represents the stock thickness, so if the
stock is 25mm thick, the center of the stock is at 12-1/2mm so that is
what is displayed on the fence scale. When your stock thickness is not
one of the preset steps, you simply divide the measured thickness by 2 and
set the fence using the scale.
The fence also includes a
viewing window (right) which is used to facilitate aligning the Domino to
your work. I have used this to center the Domino on a pencil mark and I
have used the scales to the left and right of center to center a piece
without having to mark it. Your Domino may need to have its viewing
window scale calibrated. Instructions for that procedure are included in
Christopherson's excellent Domino manual.
photo at left shows the selection window of what Festool calls the height
selection slide (#3)...I
call it a step gauge. There are preset steps for 16mm, 19mm, 22mm, 25mm,
28mm, 36mm and 40mm. The picture on the right shows the fence resting on
the 25mm step (highlighted in red).
On my unit I was
initially having trouble placing the mortise at the exact center and then
I noticed that fence scale was about a millimeter off from the step
gauge. To remedy this I set the gauge at 20mm and positioned the fence.
I then loosened the two Torx head screws which secure the fence scale and
realigned the scale to the pointer.
On the same side of the
Domino just to the rear of of the depth step gauge is the adjustment for
milling depth (#4).
There are two levers as shown in the picture on the left. In that photo
the he far left lever is the locking lever and it must me depressed in
order to move the notch lever which is the green one to its right. This
operation requires two hands (photo on right) and can set the milling
depth to any one of 5 depths, 12mm, 15mm, 20mm 25mm and 28mm. With these
depth selections and the various length tenons you can have your mortises
of equal depth on each piece or offset if needed. Festool took care of
sizing the tenons a little shorter than their advertised length to allow
room for glue so you can feel safe milling 25mm mortises for a 50mm tenon.
final adjustment control we'll need to make our mortises is the tenon hole
width knob (#5).
This adjustment allows three mortise widths which equal the diameter of
the installed bit added to 13mm, 19mm, and 23mm. So with a 10mm bit
installed that works out to 23mm, 29mm and 33mm (see, I can add in
metric). This adjustment should always be performed with the tool running
to ensure proper engagement of the swivel mechanism.
The purpose of the larger
mortise widths is for a couple of reasons. First, when using the smallest
size the precise location of the mortise is very important because there
is no play either vertically or horizontally so your pieces are going to
line up where the tenon makes them line up. That being said there are
times when you don't need such a precise location of your
mortises...usually across the width of the tenon. An example of this is
when using tenons to end join a panel. We are interested in vertical
alignment because we want the panels to be flush at their faces but we
probably don't care about horizontal alignment and having tight horizontal
alignment will serve nothing but to make the joint more difficult to
make. The second reason is wood movement. In certain applications having
elongated mortises in a cross grain situation will allow for movement if
you glue only one side. I am using this method for the shelf on the
coffee table that I'm building for this review. Read the Domino in Use
section of this review for more information.
The Support bracket can
be used to add surface area to the face of the Domino to aid in
stability. The Support is a simple right angle bracket that attaches to
the base of the Domino with two thumb screws.
The Domino is shipped
with a 5mm bit. There are Domino tenons in thicknesses of 5mm, 6mm, 8mm
and 10mm and each different thickness requires a similarly sized bit. At
right I'm holding the 10mm bit which is the largest Festool offers. The
bits are sized so that they can be sharpened between 1 and 3 times before
they are too short to create an acceptable width mortise. Festool says
that the sharpening process can remove up to 1mm of material and still
result in a useable bit. I measured all my bits and they averaged 48.75mm
so that would make the minimum serviceable length after sharpening at
47.75mm If you decide not to sharpen fear not, Festool reports that the
bits will last about 4,000 mortises when milling into the end grain of
hardwood and 15,000 when milling into the side grain of soft wood. Those
numbers are at the two extremes of the scale so we're likely to get
something in between. In any event if the bits come close to that
lifespan most of us will probably just buy a new one rather than sharpen
For those of you
wondering how the Domino bit could last that long, the answer is two
fold. One reason is that the bit is carbide tipped but that isn't really
the main reason for the longevity. The Domino bit unlike a drill bit is
always moving. A drill bit turns and turns over and over at the same spot
generating heat and wear. The constantly moving Domino bit avoids most of
the conditions and stresses that cause a normal drill bit to wear out.
Below are more shots of
the 10mm bit. In the first photo on the left you can clearly see the
The Domino Tenons:
The Cutter & Domino Tenon
Assortment really should be your first accessory purchase for the Domino.
In this kit you get a set of all four cutters; 5mm, 6mm, 8mm and 10mm, a
number 2 Systainer which is divided and labeled into six compartments (pic
right) and 1105 domino tenons. The tenons include 600 each of the
5x19x30mm, 190 each of 6x20x40mm, 130 each of 8x22x40mm, 100 each of
8x22x50mm and 85 each of 10x24x50mm. Festool also includes some spare
labels in case the labels wear off from the plywood dividers or for use
when you make more tenon storage.
Here they are. The
larger ones are pretty substantial. I see myself using the 10x50 quite
often. The 5x19x30mm tenon is thicker and will penetrate further than a
4x56x23mm #20 biscuit it will likely replace. The Domino tenons are made
from solid birch and as such are dimensionally stable in comparison to
compressed beech biscuits and should not be affected by the humidity in
your shop. The tenons do have glue ribs on the long edges and embossed
Festool branding and recesses which will expand once a wet glue hits them.
At left is a Domino tenon.
It has side flue flutes and is embossed for both identification and to
In an effort to find out
how stable the Domino tenon is I submerged this tenon in a glass of water
for about 15 hours. I measured its thickness before placing it in the
water and it averaged 8.05mm. After 15 hours I removed it and measured it
again, it measured 8.20mm on average. That is a growth of .15mm or
.006". I'm not sure what this test proves or how I could equate 15 hours
in water to the humidity in my shop but it does look to me that the tenon
is dimensionally stable.
Changing the Bit
Included with the tenon
assortment above is a set of all four Domino bits. Again that's 5, 6, 8
and 10mm. The bits come packaged in a nice plastic case and even the case
is labeled so that when you're searching the shop for that missing bit
that you just had in your hand, you know which one you're looking for :).
The bits screw on to the
drive shaft or arbor which is threaded for a M6 x 0.75 thread.
On the opposite side from
the mortise width selector is the unlocking latch (photo left) There is a
lever on the fence piece that passes beneath this latch and hooks on it so
that the front fence cannot come loose from the Domino motor body. In
order to change the bit we need to remove the front end so using the
included bit wrench, gently pry up the latch (pic right). Just insert the
wrench in the opening below the latch and pivot the wrench down. You'll
hear it "click" and feel the motor body release and spring back away from
to pull the motor body back away and apart from the front fence assembly.
Before we change the bit let's turn in over and look at the bit mechanism
(right). If you double click on the photo at right a closer view will be
displayed where you can clearly see the bit swivel mechanism. It kind of
looks like a turret on a tank. The 5mm bit is installed in that photo.
here is a front on view of the motor body (left). The two holes are the
front of the motor body are the guide tubes for the posts on which the
guide frame (right) or what I call the fence assembly slides or more
accurately plunges on. When you assemble the body to the guide frame you
just align it and slide the posts into the tubes.
we're ready to change the bit. On the right side of the motor body is a
arbor lock (circled in red at left). We will need to grip the motor body
and depress this lock with one hand while we unscrew the bit using the
wrench with the other (right). This is the standard threading, clockwise
to tighten and counter clockwise to loosen. The flats for the wrench are
machined into the base of the bit. The vacuum hose
connection for dust collection can also be seen in the photo at left.
the bit is loose you can unscrew it by hand as I'm doing in the photo at
left. The best way for me to explain this operation is with a short video
where you see the entire process and I even run the Domino so you can see
the bit movement. Just double click on the video link at right.
Trim Stop another indispensable accessory. The Trim Stop is a fence
accessory that aligns and secures your work for an end grain mortise
(bottom view on left). If you cutting mortises in a bunch of rails and
stiles then this tool will greatly aid you in aligning the piece
accurately and quickly. The Trim Stop is plastic (reinforced Nylon I
think), slips on to your Domino fence, and creates adjustable fences
perpendicular to your Domino face (right).
To install the Trim Stop
first make sure that you loosen and slide all the way back towards the
outside of the Trim Stop the locking clips. My finger is pointing to one
in the photo at left. Once that's done just slide the Trim Stop on to the
Domino's fence until it is fully seated. Push the clips forward so that
they lock into the recesses on the Domino fence (right) and tighten. Now
the Trim Stop is ready to use.
demonstrate two way to align the measured center of the board width to the
Domino. At left I'm using the scribe lines on the base of the Domino and
at right I'm using the scale on the viewing window.
If you are milling an
exact fit mortise where exact placement in both axis is required, I
suggest you use the scale on the viewing window for the alignment simply
because you can calibrate it to your specific Domino. Instructions for
that procedure are included in
Rick Christopherson's excellent Domino manual.
Accessories: Cross Stop
cross stop is a handy accessory which allows you to place mortises on both
pieces of work without measuring and marking. The Cross Stop lends itself
to speedy, accurate panel glue-ups and is great to use when the actually
position of the mortise along the work isn't important, but the relative
position of the mortises on the two parts to be joined is what is
important. Examples of applications where it will be useful are panel
glue-ups like I've already mentioned and carcass and shelf assembly.
The Cross Stop is two
outrigger-like assemblies which are basically a scale and a movable pin.
These assemblies attach on either or both sides of the Domino base plate
with a dovetail joint (right).
outrigger has a scale and a moveable, lockable guide pin. This pin is
used to index the Domino from a previously cut mortise.
The Cross Stop operates
much in the same way of an indexing shelf pin jig. You set the moveable
stops or guide pins to the distance you choose between your mortises.
Then you mill your first mortise, and each subsequent mortise is indexed
off the previous one. The photo at right shoes the Cross Stop Guide Pin
"hooked" into a mortise and indexing the Domino for the next plunge.
previously mentioned aspect of indexing is the use of the two built in
guide pins. These stops are great to position your first mortise on the
piece and they use the edge of the work as the reference point. I always
place my first mortise when using the Cross Stop with the Domino's built
in stop pins.
The Domino In Use:
I was lucky enough to receive the Domino for review while I was just
beginning a coffee table project. This was both good news and bad news.
I was planning on building the table with integral mortise and tenon
joints so from that perspective the timing was perfect. The bad news, or
maybe more accurately the challenge in using the Domino for this project
was that I ran the risk of making mistakes and not ending up with a table
that I'd feel good about giving to my middle daughter to finish out her
living room table set.
I'm not going to go into
all the steps in making this coffee table but at left you see me sanding
the legs and apron pieces in anticipation of taking the Domino to them.
In the case of these pieces one can really completely finish sand them
prior to mortising because the Domino operation in this application will
not require any sanding.
Once the parts were
sanded I carefully selected and marked each part so I knew which face
would be facing the outside of the finished table. This is very important
because we will use the "outside" face of all parts, including the legs,
to reference the Domino from. Doing it this way allows us not to have to
be extremely precise when finding the center of the thickness of a piece.
When using more traditional power tools for M&T joinery; a Bench Top
Mortising machine, Table Saw Tenon Jig or a router and jig, our process is
to find the exact center for the tenon. That is accomplished by either
the tool itself like in the case of the table saw jig or our own
techniques like reversing you piece and running it through the router
again to find the exact center, as examples. With the Domino there really
isn't a need to be so precise as long as you make all your reverences from
the same side of the piece. I've rambled on about this and I hope I
didn't give you the impression that we're not placing mortises at the
center line of the piece, it's just that for me, when I talk about the
exact center of a piece, I really mean exact as measured by
an accurate measuring device and with the Domino there just isn't the need
to be that precise. Not having to worry about those exacting tolerances
also greatly speeded up the process for me. Once I had the boards marked
for the outside I used a rule to mark the position of the mortises, much
like one would with a biscuit joiner.
If you click on the video
on the right you will see a full length video of me cutting mortises in
the apron and legs. I did have to edit out a bit about halfway through
the video because I had a bout of reverse hallucination....you know, not
seeing something that's right in front of you. I was looking for my gauge
block and couldn't find it so I uttered a few expletives and had to do an
edit. It is somewhat a long video at about 6 megabytes but I wanted you
to get a feel for exactly how long it takes.
In this video please
remember I am literally using the Domino for the first time so I'm being
very careful and slow plunging. I didn't know how fast or slow I could
plunge the mortise so I was taking it extremely slow so as not to ruin the
piece....I'm much quicker now.
You'll also notice that I
use one exact fit mortise and one wide mortise. If I was do do this over,
with the exception of edge joining, I would use all exact fit mortises
because now I know that I and the Domino can place those mortises
precisely where I want them. The last mortises I made were in the
stretchers for the shelf and each of those joints has two exact fit 8x40mm
tenons and fit is perfect.
left you see the parts all milled and some Domino tenons inserted in the
legs for a dry fit. If I subtract the overhead for making the video I
would say that the process of measuring and marking the parts as well as
using the Domino took about a half an hour. Conversely, the process of
making integral M&T on a very similar piece using a bench top mortiser and
a table saw tenon jig took me the better part of an afternoon. For
comparison, the photo at right are similar parts for a matching end table
made with integral tenons.
The results of the dry
fit were perfect. With traditional joinery I'd be spending a considerable
amount of time fitting the joints with my shoulder plane. I'm going to
have to put a heavy coat of wax on my Lee Valley shoulder plane so it
doesn't rust while sitting in the drawer.
next step was to edge join the boards which will make up the table top and
shelf. I was very apprehensive about using the Domino initially for this
operation because my luck with using a biscuit joiner for this operation
was less that acceptable. Remember what I said above about my definition
of exact and apply that same expectation to the alignment of the
boards. I found that with a biscuit joiner I could never achieve an exact
joint and I was afraid that the Domino would disappoint me is this area as
If you click on the video
link at left and listen to my voice when I feel the joint I think you will
hear my surprise and delight at the quality of the joint. I can tell you
that I will now always use the Domino for this application as it will make
alignment easier and I don't have to worry about the boards moving out of
perfect registration as I'm tightening and adjusting the clamps.
table has a shelf and I wanted to use the Domino to attach it. I like
hiding the joint in a dado but certainly the tenons provide all the deeded
strength so that it could be a butt joint.
So I milled 5 mortises in
both the shelf edge and the stretcher and then used my router table to
create a shallow mortise, about 3/16" deep (right). The center mortise I
milled I made exact fit and this tenon will be glued into both the
stretcher and table, the rest I milled at the medium width and they will
not be glued.
I wanted to use the 8mm
tenons and they are 40mm in length. This posed a little problem because
the mortise in the stretcher could only be 12mm deep and the largest
setting on the Domino is 28mm so 12+28=40 BUT I was going to set the shelf
in a 3/16 deep mortise so now my tenon was 3/16" too long. To get around
this I used the 40x8mm tenons cut down to about 30mm in length. A safe
way to trim the tenons is with my SCMS and a jig. For the jig I simply
milled an exact fit mortise in the end of a scrap, inserted the tenons and
Another use for the
Domino is to mill slots to receive what I call table buttons. I milled 2
slots per apron section and attached the top for the dry fit with table
Here's the coffee table
in a final dry fit. I still have to edge treat the shelf and one final
sanding but then it's time to glue it up. There are 42 mortise and loose
tenon joints in this table, plus another 8 mortises for the table buttons
and 20 joints (40 mortises) in the table top and shelf edge joining.
next two clips are not about using the Domino but you may be interested
anyway. The first one (left) is a short clip showing how easy it is to
square up a panel using the Multi Function Table and
the ATF55 Plunge saw. The process is to first rip the top to width and
then trim the ends on the MFT.
In the second clip
(right) I'm applying a bevel to my table top, again using the MFT and the
OF1400 Plunge Router. I could have used my router table but this panel
was large enough that I thought hand routing would be easier...and it
next clip demonstrates using the Trim Stop to facilitate end grain
mortises. The Trim Stop is a real time saver and assures repeatability of
the mortise placement on your work. I've mentioned throughout my videos
that securing the work, in my opinion, is an important component to
achieving accuracy with the Domino and the Trim Stop acts as a jig for
positioning and securing you work. I see if being of value when you only
have a few pieces to mill and you don't want to bother setting up a jig on
your bench or when you're out on a job site and cant create a more
elaborate jig. It is also a great accessory when you have a lot of pieces
to mill as it does all the centering and securing work for you and leaves
you only with coming up with some way to keep the work from moving away
from you when you plunge.
I had created my table
tops by using the traditional way of measuring and marking the position
for the tenons so when it came to demonstrating the Cross Stop I
didn't have an actual project piece to use. I devised a demonstration
using a couple of short pieces of plywood. In order to show you how
accurately the Domino with Cross Stop could place the mortises, I've used
the exact fit size for the mortise and rather than starting at one end and
moving down the board, I cut two mortises from one end and two from the
other. With this test not only am I demonstrating the repeatability of
the Domino and Cross Stop but I'm compounding the possible error by
indexing of of each end of the boards.
On a real panel edge
joining project I would probably cut my first mortise using the stop pin
built in to the Domino (as I did in this test) and would simply use the
Cross Stop to mill mortises all the way along the edge until I got close
to the end and then only if need be, make my final mortise using the
opposing stop pin indexed off the far end of the board.
Problems and Tips:
The only "problem" I had
with the Domino was that it needed to have its
Fence Scale and
Centering Scale adjusted or calibrated. Thanks to the
manual by Rick Christopherson, instructions for the
centering scale are included but there wasn't enough time to include the
fence scale. Since the user needs to rely on these scales to achieve
accuracy and alignment, my recommendation is that the instructions for the
fence scale be added, and the calibration of these scales be be moved to
the beginning of the manual for setting up the Domino.
A shortcoming I found
with the Domino is the lack of an infinitely adjustable plunge depth. The
Domino comes with 5 preset stops for the plunge or mortise depth and they
work fine for 99% of applications but for thin pieces it would be nice to
be able to fine tune the depth. Rick's manual explains a fairly simple
work around for this issue.
The last annoyance are
the built in stop pins. Don't get me wrong they work great when you're
using them but when you aren't they can mess up your mortise placement if
you're not careful. On a number of occasions when milling mortises close
together the stop pin would catch in the adjacent mortise and misalign the
Domino causing me to have to back the Domino off and carefully move the
Domino until I was past the mortise before pushing it up tight to the work
to align it. It would be nice if the pins had a slot in the end and
threads on the far end so when not in use one could push them in and lock
them in the recessed position.
Other than those just
mentioned, I really don't have anything else to complain about with the
for tips, the Domino is a pretty straight forward tool to use. Tip number
one is to calibrate both the fence and centering scales and to use the
centering scale in the fence as your primary scale for accuracy and only
use the scribes on the base of the Domino when precise placement of the
mortise is not as important.
Tip number two is to use
the left and right triangular windows on the fence to confirm that your
guide pin is up flush against the edge of the board. If it is it will be
centered in the window as shown at right.
Tip number three is to be
careful when aligning the scale to the work with the Domino running. The
swivel action of the bit causes the Domino the "shake" laterally when held
in your hand causing you a little more effort to line the centering scale
up with mark. Additionally when the Domino and vacuum are running, the
Domino "sticks" to the work from the suction. This too makes aligning a
little more difficult and can even feel like your stop pin is engaged when
it is not...so be sure to remember the tip above when using the stop pin.
I believe the Domino
produces accurate mortise and loose tenon joinery at a speed and ease that
I've never experienced. The Domino will be utilized from now on for all
my mortise and tenon joinery where design permits. I'm not sure if my
work qualifies as the work of a craftsman yet but if it did I would
qualify myself as a modern tool assisted craftsman and not a "Neander".
That being said I consider the joinery created by the Domino to have the
same quality and craftsmanship as other power tool assisted joinery. This
is not biscuit joinery. Because I achieved an accuracy in my panel glue
up with the first use of the Domino, something I never could do repeatedly
with my biscuit joiner, I will be using the Domino exclusively and my
Dewalt plate joiner is going on Craig's list.
As with all Festool tools
the Domino comes with a 30 day no questions asked guarantee. Their 1yr +2
yrs Warranty where Festool pays shipping both ways for product failures
during the first year and return shipping for the last two years of the
warranty. Also as with every Festool tool I've used the Domino exudes
Festool quality in every aspect of the tool.
I hope that with this
review I've shown you enough of the tool and its use that you can make an
informed purchase decision. Would I recommend that you purchase the
Domino? That is a decision only you can make but I believe that the
Domino lives up to all the hype and expectations, performs at least as
well as advertised, is a real time saver while creating high quality
Thanks to Bill
Esposito for allowing us to mirror his great Domino review!
PURCHASE ONLINE AND HELP SUPPORT THIS SITE!|
Festool DF 500 Q Domino® Joiner|
This revolutionary new tool cuts quick, precise mortises with the ease and simplicity of a biscuit cutter! One plunge creates a perfect, smooth-sided mortise that is precisely sized to accept a DOMINO..
Festool DF 500 Q Domino® Joiner
Festool Domino at Hartville Tools (USA)