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Reviewed 5th June 2011
Well, this is my first review for a LONG time... too long in
fact, but alas, I am returning to the review process with a very
cool tool to describe, at least... the new I-Drill Oscillating
12v Multi Tool.
This new tool is actually described as a "saw" by
its manufacturer, but it is much more than a saw, and can do
much more than just cut things. This type of tool is not new.
Indeed similar tools have been around for many years now, but
this model offers all the benefits of an oscillating multi-tool
in a convenient cordless package.
This is just one tool from a line of tools with the I-Drill
name, and we hope to offer reviews of the other items in due
course but I wanted to kick off by looking at this particular
tool, since I have always wanted one, and because it is so
versatile, and a must for any home renovator, handyman or
remodeler.
The I-Drill 12v Oscillating Tool
As mentioned previously, this type of tool is not new,
but I'll review it in detail for the benefit of those who may
have not come across a similar tool previously, and because I
haven't reviewed a similar tool on this site before, and I
always like to make my reviews as informative as possible, by
explaining tasks that can be achieved by using the product and
how best to use it etc etc.
First and foremost, you will notice this product has no cord.
Its a cordless multi-tool. While oscillating tools running off
mains power are fairly common, cordless varieties are a rarer
breed, although now there are probably half a dozen or so on the
market. What sets the I-Drill version apart from some of the
others is that is universal in terms of its power supply and
where it can be used. All I-Drill products can be used and are
approved for use anywhere in the world. No more needing specific
power supplies for specific countries. The I-Drill battery
chargers are supplied with plugs to fit outlets in almost all
countries in the world, and the chargers can handle a wide range
of input voltages, again that match the power supplies used in
most countries on Earth. Perhaps the "I" in I-Drill stands for
International? Whatever the case, knowing you can plug your new
"I-Drill" brand tool into your local wall socket and not worry
about whether the charger can handle your local electrical
supply is a breath of fresh air. You can also have confidence in
purchasing anything from the range for a friend or relative
overseas and not have to worry about whether it will work in
their country or not.
The Oscillating Tool ships in a nice suitcase style pack, inside
each component is located in its own shaped section cut from the
hardened foam case insert. The package includes the oscillating
tool, battery charger with 4x clip-on plug adaptors to suit most
countries around the world, 1 x 12v battery and numerous
attachments which I will describe later.
All tools in the I-Drill range use the same 12v 1.3Ah Lithium
Ion stick batteries, so if you have multiple tools from the
range, you can switch batteries between each tool as required.
This means less hassle finding a battery and only one charger
required for all the tools, keeping your storage requirements
for battery chargers to a minimum - leaving more space for other
cool tools! The batteries feature quality Sanyo Lithium Ion
cells. Now, you might argue that all Lithium Ion cells are
created equal, but sadly this certainly is not true. Just look
at any budget line of cordless power tools. Chances are that if
the tool is cordless, and it is rediculously cheap, it is likely
going to have poor quality batteries. If you are going to go
cordless, quality batteries are a must, otherwise your tool wont
deliver good performance, and the only "good" thing it will
deliver is a "good" dose of frustration, something which should
be avoided! Thankfully the Sanyo cells have proven to be of good
quality in other applications in the past, and they should also
prove of high quality in these I-Drill tools. Of course it is
too early in the product's life for me to verify this is the
case, but so far the batteries appear to be holding up very well
and certainly deliver a great amount of continuous power, which
is necessary for a tool like this. Given that most tasks this
tool undertakes places the tool under constant load (which
generally draws more power from the battery cells than when
under no load) the batteries are working just fine in my
opinion. The batteries are not large in size or heavy in weight
by any means, so you cant expect them to last forever under high
load, but they do appear to be delivering a suitable amount of
battery life per cycle all things considered. You can often tell
almost right off the bat if you are using inferior batteries or
cells. They don't deliver much power to begin with, and even
after numerous charge/discharge cycles, they don't improve
either.
Universal charger and I-Drill battery.
On the side of the oscillating tool is a battery charge level
indicator featuring three blue LED lights. Once the tool is
powered up, these lights illuminate to show an estimate of the
current charge level. Three blue lights means a full or near
full level of battery charge. Two lights means roughly a half
full battery and one light means a low battery charge (battery
should be charged before continuing to use it). With Lithium Ion
batteries, it is best not to run them down to a near empty
charge state if possible. It is worse to store these batteries
with little or no charge. They should be charged regularly and
fully charged before storing for any length of time. Because
there is no real memory effect with lithium ion batteries, you
can recharge them at any stage without harming the battery, so I
would recommend putting them on the charger after you have
finished using the tool for the day so the batteries are charged
up, in case you don't use the tool again for a month or three.
The batteries are charged using the supplied charger. Because it
is a universal charger, just attach the clip on plug that suits
the countries wall socket you are in before you start. Attach
this to the charger plug before plugging the cord into the
electrical outlet. Turn on the mains power. The charger will
show a green light. Insert the battery into the charger (it can
only go in one way). Once inserted, the green light goes out and
the red light illuminates to indicate the charging cycle has
started. Once fully charged (around 45-60 mins for a full charge
from a low or flat state) the red light goes out and the green
light illuminates for easy identification that charging is
complete. If the lights flash, there may be a charger/battery
problem or the battery pack may be too hot to charge. Check the
manual for further instructions. So far the charge process has
been flawless for me. No problems noted.
Battery during charge. Note the red charge light is illuminated.
At the front of the tool is a LED worklight. This lights up
whenever power is applied to the tool. It is useful in dark
areas to help illuminate the work area. Its a handy little
addition that is becoming more commonplace on cordless tools
these days, and why not... LED lights consume so little power
for the amount of light they can produce that there is little
reason NOT to have them on the front of tools.
On top of the tool is a standard sliding ON/OFF switch to
control power to the tool. Below this on the side of the tool is
a variable speed control. Variable speed is crucial to control
speed of cut during cutting processes or to help control
material removal rate when sanding or during surface preparation
operations, among others. Cutting speeds may also need to be
slowed depending on material being cut. Some materials, for
example, are more prone to heat generated during cutting than
others. The oscillating tool provides an oscillation range/angle
of +/- 1.4 degrees and a variable rate controlled by the
variable speed wheel of between 5,500- 15,000 rpm.
Rubber overmolds cover all the major grip surfaces on the tool
and the battery plugs in at the rear of the tool and when attach
just about perfectly balances the tool in your hand so its not
heavier at either end. This is a good feature as tools like this
work with an oscillating motion and do generate a fair amount of
vibration, and vibration mixed with a weight biased tool in one
direction can cause fatigue. The even weight and centre of
gravity located under the center of your hand when gripping the
tool normally should help reduce this effect.
And now onto the working part of the tool. The accessory holder
is where all the various cutting, grinding, sanding and scraping
tools are attached. Because the head oscillates within a very
small angular range, it does not spin in the same manner a drill
head or router collet does. Still, care must be taken when the
various cutting or grinding accessories are attached. I'll go
through these individually so you get a good idea of what this
tool comes with out of the box, and what these accessories can
be used for in common applications.
Firstly, the various accessories/application tools appear to be
quite universal in design, so some other manufacturer's parts
may fit the I-Drill oscillating tool (I will have to verify this
with the manufacturer). This is probably necessary as the
I-Drill accessory range is probably not as readily available as
others from the more well established brands. They do include a
Dremel accessory adaptor so that is proof that Dremel branded
attachments for the Dremel oscillating tool will be able to be
used on the I-Drill oscillating tool using that adaptor. Each
accessory attaches to the holder via two pins, which is then
secured by a hex bolt. Some other similar tools feature a
tool-less accessory holder/change procedure, but the one bolt is
not difficult to add or remove in any case. What I would like to
see on this tool, however, is a place onboard the tool or molded
into the tool casing to hold the hex wrench for easy access, and
so it is harder to lose. I, like many others I suspect, have a
habit of misplacing the wrenches needed to change the blade or
attachment on these types of tools. I usually try and add some
kind of wrench holder to the power cord of many of my power
tools, but this cordless tool doesn't have a cord to attach
anything too! I'll just have to be vigilant and put the hex
wrench back in the case or in a draw in my shed :) The other
thing with the attachments is that they can be positioned on the
tool is 6 different angles, so you can locate the blade at just
the right angle to suit the position of the work piece or for
clearance issues of the tool itself.
Now, onto the accessories:
 1.
Bi-Metal Straight-Edge Flush Cut Blade - This straight
edge blade is probably the most useful type for many users. It
can cut wood, plastic, drywall and soft metals. Because the
blade is offset it can be used for flush cutting, and these
oscillating tools really excel at that. Think of undercutting
door trim to tile underneath or cutting into the middle of
existing baseboard trim. You can't easily get a hand saw onto
that, and a circular saw is out of the question because you will
damage either the floor or the ground next to it. An oscillating
tool is the ideal solution. Just plunge cut in right where you
need to make the cut and you can control the cut depth with ease
and accuracy with a little care. I used this blade on the
I-Drill oscillation tool to cut out a clearance hole in my drum
sander's plastic top drum cover to fit a larger 4" dust port.
The I-Drill oscillating tool was the perfect tool for the job
and the bi-metal blade did the job quickly and cleanly. I have
also used it for baseboard and trim undercutting or flush
cutting as mentioned above, and also of cutting access holes for
new electrical wall sockets. Another handy use is flush cutting
dowel or plugs close to the surface. Although a flush cutting
pull saw does do a better job, the oscillating tool will do it
faster, but may require a little more sanding time, and there is
a greater risk of damaging the surface surrounding the plug with
a power tool. Another very handy feature of this blade is flush
cutting copper pipe or plastic pipe to a wall surface. I haven't
had the need to do that yet but there are videos showing it
being done and it is impressive! Cutting out holes in
plasterboard is easy as there is no need to drill pilot holes in
corners for other blades to access, or risk injury using a jab
saw to plunge into the material with force. The ability to
plunge cut square to a material surface also makes it the ideal
blade for cutting bench tops around shed wall framing or for
fitting shelving around fixed obstructions. The list of
possibilities is almost endless! You will likely use this type
of blade the most as it is the best suited style of blade for an
oscillating tool.
 2.
Circular Saw Blade (high speed steel) - This is a rounded
edge blade with small steel teeth, much like the straight edge
blade just with a different shape. It is not offset like the
straight blade so it cannot undercut. It can cut similar
materials as the straight edge blade, with the exception of some
metals. It is listed as being able to cut thin sheet metal but
there is likely other tools better suited to that need. It can
be easier to cut wider material in a straight line than the
narrower straight blade so it does give better results in these
applications (as long as undercutting is not required).
The other advantage is that it is easier to start a plunge cut
with the rounded blade than with the straight blade so it is
also a useful blade for a lot of different tasks.
 3. Carbide circular blade - This "blade" is more of a grinding
tool or grinding wheel than a cutting blade. It is best used on
the I-Drill to undertake grout removal tasks, to help remove or
make shallow cuts in plaster or clean up plastered edges (not
ideal) or it can also be used on porous concrete and masonry.
These latter tasks if anything that a small quick job would be
better suited to another tool. For grout removal in shallow
grout lines, this carbide wheel is ideal and does quite a good
job. Of course how well can be determined by the type of grout
used and even the composition of the grout. Some grout sets
harder than others, and harder grout will be more difficult to
remove, or at least take longer to remove. Set the I-Drill tool
to max speed and plunge into the grout line. Be wary not to
plunge the "blade" too deeply as you may cut into the backing
material behind the tile and damage the board or backing
surface. Keep the tool moving and make several shallow passes to
ensure depth of cut into the grout is controlled. Because there
is one flat side on the rounded blade, you can get right now
into corners or joins without damaging the mating surface. This
is a great feature are makes it the tool of choice for tough insitu jobs like this. Similar method can be used for making
cuts into porous concrete or masonry, but to be honest, I can't
think of many concrete/masonry cutting tasks this tool would be
practical for? A grinder with a diamond wheel is the go here.
 4. Carbide triangle rasp - This triangular shaped attachment has
a bottom surface coated with carbide grit which is very coarse
for rapid material removal. It can be used on wood, masonry,
hardened adhesives and thinset, among other materials. It is
best used on flat surfaces or edges to shape or removal
material. If you want to round the sharp edge of a board or
garden lumber, this tool will do that. It is excellent at
removing thinset from previously tiled areas or to remove it
from a lifted tile to repair and replace. The very course
carbide grit is quite aggressive and handles this task extremely
well. For removing plaster around a crack in a plasterboard
sheet to properly repair the damage, the carbide rasp is
excellent and makes quick work of widening the area or removing
plaster around the crack to allow a decent amount of new topcoat
to be applied and smoothed over. Certainly an accessory you will
often find new uses for around the home or in the workshop.
 5. Steel scraper blade - This is a nice little offset blade that
does as its name suggests, it scrapes. It is great for removing
old and flaking paint, for lifting vinyl, cork or lino tiles and
can also remove old tile adhesive quite well, at least rubber
modified flexible tile adhesive which is what I used it on
during testing in my house, and for this it worked quite well.
For removing paint or varnish, the surface should be close to
smooth or flat for best results. The scraper blade does have a
bit of an edge on it that can dig into surfaces if care is not
taken and the right scraping angle used for the sub-surface
material you are trying to remove the painted or varnished coats
from. The blade supplied is a rigid blade as opposed to a
flexible one. Flexible scraping blades are better used to remove
silicone sealants, caulking materials or glazing sealants or
putty. The rigid scraper blade is great for cutting carpet, even
though you may think it is not suitable for it. You can readily
plunge cut into carpet to accurately remove a piece or trim it
to fit around wall structures or obstructions. It also cuts
marine carpet very well too as I discovered. If you carpet has
been glued down, once the piece is removed, use the same blade
to scrape off the carpet adhesive and residue from the surface.
It's very easy and the tool is a joy to use for purposes just
like this.
 6. Sanding plate -
This triangular sanding plate accepts
triangular shaped hook and loop backed sandpaper which is
readily available. 12 pieces are provided, 4 each of 60, 80 and
120 grit paper. The motion of the oscillating I-Drill tool is
similar to that of a 1/4 sheet or 1/3 sheet powered sander so
the tool doesn't deliver very aggressive sanding, but more
finish-style sanding, although with a 60-grit sheet attached and
a high speed, you can remove material quite rapidly. Obviously
sanding is most common on wooden surfaces but is equally useful
on metal to smooth surfaces prior to applying a finish, or
removing existing finishes. The triangular shape of the plate
and sanding sheets allows the operator to sand into tight
corners with ease. For larger areas, obviously this tool is not
the most suitable because of its small sanding plate surface. It
will take time to sand any large areas, but for patch sanding or
finer detail sanding of smaller areas, the sander works very
well. I used it to sand filler in nail holes used for fixing
baseboards, to sand in the corners of door panels I have just
finished assembling for a storage unit, and to help remove
surface rust on some metal outdoor posts before repainting. It
can be used well for small tasks where finer sanding is
indicated.
7. Dremel accessory attachment - I don't own any Dremel
oscillating tool accessories so I can't confirm this attachment
works, but there is no reason it wouldn't as it is simply an
adaptor. I believe it is included as I-Drill branded or
distributed accessories may not be as readily available as
Dremel accessories, so with an adapter such as this included,
you can use any Dremel Multi-Max oscillating tool accessory on
your I-Drill oscillating tool, and Dremel accessories are
available just about everywhere around the globe, and certainly
everywhere online as well.
Do you need this tool?
This is the question. The tool is certainly very handy
to have as most people will have a need for at least one of its
functions at some stage or another. But like a Dremel rotary
tool, it is limited to small jobs mostly. If you want to work on
large projects using it, you certainly can, but it will take
longer than using dedicated tools for that specific job, and for
large tasks you might be better off with a corded version that
doesn't rely on battery power. For the home renovator the tool
is ideal and certainly a must have item and for the odd job, the
ability to just grab it and go and not worry about extension
cords or access to mains power is great. For fitting and trim
work the tool will most likely be used regularly, and is also
handy for plumbers working with copper pipe and plastic pipe, or
plasterers or electricians cutting into plasterboard. The tool
is certainly versatile, there is no doubt about it.
At the end of the day, if you are undertaking or
plan to undertake any of the above jobs or tasks mentioned on a
fairly regular basis and have no other specialized tools for
those jobs that work as well or better, then you will find value
in the I-Drill oscillating tool. It is one of those tools (just
like a Dremel rotary tool) that you tend to find new uses for
once you own one yourself.
The I-Drill 1i-osc oscillating tool retails for
USD$129.95 at time of writing. Check the I-Drill website for
availability of the product from a retailer near you -
www.idrill.com
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I-Drill 1i-osc Photos
All photos copyright onlinetoolreviews.com. Use without prior
written permission prohibited
The I-Drill 12v Cordless Oscillating Tool
Variable speed available by the speed dial
The compact 12v battery has a 1.5Ah capacity
The battery indicator here showing a full charge
LED light on the front of the tool
Plunge cutting into drywall to prep a damaged wall
for repair
Sanding filler used to cover nail holes in
baseboard
Grout removal is perfectly suited to the I-Drill
oscillating tool and the circular carbide blade
The triangular carbide rasp has many uses; here I
am knocking off the sharp edges of the entry posts to a kids cubby house
The scraper blade knocks off dried rubber modified
tile adhesive with little effort@
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